John s



would J. S. PALMER.

' g Gem Setting. No.' 236,835. 4 Patented Jam 18, I881.

)L PETERi PHOTOJJTHOGRAPNER, WASHINGTON, DC.

UNIT-ED [STATES To all whom t't may concern:

Be it known that 1, JOHN S. PALMER, of the city of Providence, in the county of Providence and State of Rhode Island, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Method of and Means for Setting Precious or other Stones in Articles of Jewelry; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, which will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference beinghad to the accompanying-drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification.

. My inventionrelates to a novel method and stones in place while being set, and of alfordin g a fixed and permanent bearing for the same when set; and the nature of-the invention will be made plain from the following description. Figure 1 illustrates the several parts of a finger-ring made in accordance with 'my invention, the parts being detached and ready to be put together, it being, however, understood that the invention is applicable generally to jewelry and similar articles in which stones or jewels are to be inserted, a rin g merely serving by way of illustration. Fig. 2 shows the ring with the several pieces bound temporarily in place, ready for soldering or cementing. Fig. 3 shows a ring with a portion of the stone broken away to exhibit my improvement of its interior construction, consistin g, mainly, in one or more springs, which serve as .sprin gs at a certain stage of the fabrication, and are subsequently converted into fixed bearings. A is the ring proper; B, the bezel or rim; o .0, the stone, and D the springs whichI employ to hold the stone in position in the bezel.

The springs D (one or more, accordingly as circumstances may require) being placed in the bed or cup e of the ring or other article, and supported loosely, as shown, upon their legs, and bythe wall or side of the cup, if need be, the stone is next laiduponthe spring or springs, and then the bezelisplaced to encompass the stone. Duringthese latter steps, as also during the temporary wiring or binding of the parts preparatory to soldering or cementnovel' means of holding precious and other- PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN S. PALMER, OF PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND.

GEM-SETTING.

SPECIFICATION forming part of LettersPatent-No. 236,835 dated January 18, 1881.

Application filed Novmtwfiflqmodeld ing ofthe bezel to the collet, the springs perform the duty not onlyof upholding the stone, but also, by reason of their yielding or springing quality, to permit the most perfect adaptation of the parts without any impediment from the stone, inasmuch as the latter, resting upon these springs, may be pressed down as may be needful, the springs, however, exerting a constant pressure to bear it upward snugly against the bezel.

When the bezel has been fastened by cementing, soldering, or otherwise, the springs are firmly soldered or cemented to the collet, or adjacent parts upon which they may have previously rested by slipping the solder or cement into the openingfof the cup, and they then cease to be springs and become fixed permanent bearings for the stone. When the cup has a closed bottom the solder or cement should be placed within it at the same time that the springs are put in.

The number of springs used may vary at option, depending also, in some measure, upon the size, shape, and character of the article of 7 jewelry to be manufactured.

Besides the advantages above named due to this method of manufacture, and to the springs in the double capacity of a yielding support during the manufacture and of a fixed bearing support in the completed article, the advantages over the ordinary methods of cutting and burnishing the stones into the settings are a saving of labor and a much neater finish, as the stone is set at the same time and by 8 the very act of soldering on the top or bezel.

I claim 1. In the settingof stones in jewelry, the described method of holding the stone in place by means of a spring or springs while being 0 set, and of affording a fixed bearing for the same when set by securing such spring or springs in a fixed position.

2. In a gem-setting, one or more springs, D, applied and secured to hold the stone in posi- 5 tion, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

JOHN S. PALMER. 

